The Real Crime Is How Good Everyone Looks on 'Will Trent'
Ramón Rodríguez wears custom suits. Yes, Betty does fittings for her fabulous ’fits.
Hey WNVM-ers,
Greetings from a café in Mexico City as I finish this week’s newsletter to the dulcet tones of Starship’s “Nothing’s Gonna Stop Us Now” — which I also just heard watching The Naked Gun on the plane.
Speaking of, you know I love my ‘80s-esque comfy mystery shows. But “Will Trent” holds a special place in my heart — not just for the wonderful cast chemistry but the bold, colorful, and always fun costumes.
A quick programming note: Next week’s issue will be out on Thursday, Feb. 5 — I just need a couple days post-vacation — but it’ll be worth the wait, I promise! Hint: Oscar nominee Ethan Hawke.
xo Fawnia
Per usual, you may need to read the entire newsletter in your browser. And, if you’re feeling generous and want the girls’ archery team to make another appearance on “Will Trent,” please give an engagement-boosting ❤️ at the bottom of the post.
Warning: Spoilers for the first few episodes of ‘Will Trent’ season four below.
Like the astute, quirky-in-their-own-way GBI agents and APD detectives on “Will Trent,” we can do our own sleuthing through their sharp, colorful, character-driven wardrobes. These fashion whodunits are just as fun to investigate. The culprit (har har)? Costume designer Mary Jane Fort, who deserves way more attention.
“I line up every character and every costume side-by-side to see the colors and the textures,” says Fort, describing her process for creating the eye-candy costume composites for the GBI and APD team-ups. “What are they doing? Where are they going? They all play off each other.”
Will’s Bespoke Suits of Armor
Let’s start with the titular GBI agent (Ramón Rodríguez), whose impeccable three-piece suits — with his precise tie, pocket square, and French cuffs — telegraph his brilliant, unconventional deduction skills, meticulous attention to detail, and need for order and control. He even plays pickleball with therapist Dr. Roach (Margaret Cho), stunting in stripes and leopard print, in two-thirds of his suit — all of which are bespoke, btw.
“His suits are his armor against the world,” says Fort. “Because of his [traumatic foster-care] upbringing, it’s very important to him that he wears all three pieces all of the time.”
Rodríguez famously goes a bit method — and pitches in — by tying his own double-Windsor tie knots.
“He’s great, and he’s fun. says Fort, who enjoys the collaboration with Rodríguez, as an actor, series producer, and director. “He’s very reflective.”
Twinning With Ulster
Will’s suits of armor also function as a sartorial narrative device, conveying how he recognizes unsettling tendencies of himself in James Ulster (Greg Germann, whom I keep referring to as “Fish” from “Ally McBeal” in my notes) — his arch nemesis, escaped serial killer, and the man who kidnapped and murdered his mother.
As Will hunts down Ulster, he immerses himself in his cinematic mental reconstructions. Like a nightmare alterna-world reflection, Ulster mirrors with him in an identical three-piece suit.
“Will sees himself in this vision of Ulster,” says Fort.
In a darkly unhinged twist on an odd-couple buddy comedy, Ulster and Will are kidnapped by Susan Barno (Michaela Watkins), a corrections officer obsessed with the fugitive. She hauls the pair into her ’50s sitcom–style basement lair, meting out her own inspired form of punishment that seems to hit Ulster where it hurts: ”So it’s to be death by humiliation,” says Fish, forced to twin with Will, but in dorky dad shirts and khakis.
“I decided I wanted her to be like June Cleaver, and they were Beav and Wally,” says Fort, with a laugh.
Undercover Glam With Faith
The warm brown palette of Will’s tweedy suits helps him blend into all kinds of situations for his crime-solving, and contrasts with — and complements — his vibrantly clad GBI partner, Faith (Iantha Richardson), and mentor/boss, Deputy Director Amanda Wagner (Sonja Sohn).
“There’s going to be a slight little bridge here, within the color world, which I won’t tell you about yet, because I think it might be a spoiler,” says Fort, perhaps referring to Will and Faith going undercover at a fashion-art party in last week’s episode — and dressing the part.
Faith trades her trademark colorful sweater vests and cool sneakers for a chic ruby-toned look: an asymmetrical silky tie-neck blouse by Et Ochs, and a printed scarf-print wrap skirt by Dries van Noten (both sadly sold out). Will coordinates in a rich brown velvet-y blazer, with a pocket-square, of course, and a fine knit t-shirt — also maybe upping his game since past love interest and fashion photographer Ava (Julia Chan) is back in town.
Whatever Nevermind explores stories and trends that define our generation, celebrates Gen X-ers doing cool things, and dives into pop culture, fashion, and beauty from our perspective. Read more stories like this here.
Ormewood’s Much-Needed Style Intervention
Now I’ve greatly enjoyed Ormewood’s (Jake McLaughlin) hard pivot into comedic relief, girl dad, and reality-show stan. His team-ups with the no-nonsense Faith — who’s usually the one keeping Will in line — give her a chance to let loose, too, which is a delight.
“Well, he no longer has a wife who is choosing his clothes or telling him, ‘don’t wear this,’” says Fort, about the divorced single dad’s neutral plaid button-ups and canvas pants.
“So it’s not really off, but … maybe at some point, his [tween daughter] Cooper (Jophielle Loves) should choose his work clothes,” adds Fort.
Well, now that Ormewood’s moved in with Faith, she could dole out some expert style advice to her new roomie.
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Angie’s Sartorial Connection to Will
Angie (Erika Christensen) —Will’s ride-or-die and on-again-off-again love interest since the two survived the foster care system together — has her own version of sartorial protection. Angie’s little neckerchief signature — like the one accessorizing her very Will-esque houndstooth Veronica Beard Dickey Jacket in episode three and pussy blow flourishes, such as her jaunty Sailor Tie Cardi by Frame — threads back to her connection with Will.
“Like with Will’s ties, it’s very important to him to have these different layers,” says Fort. “So I decided the scarf could be Angie’s. She doesn’t overwear it. But on occasions, it’s just another little layer.”
Amanda’s Comfort-First Power Dressing
Also, thank the TV heavens that Amanda survived the domestic terrorist shooting in the season three finale. Now, the formidable GBI boss isn’t just fighting her way back to full physical strength — she’s also battling an all-too-familiar threat: being edged out of her job by yet another mid-white man. But even in her New Balance sneakers, cane in hand, she’s still commandingly dressed, like her violet-hued Smythe blazer over all-black in and a blocked Marni cardigan in the season premiere.
“She doesn’t feel good, mentally or physically, so she’s not thinking like, ‘Oh, I want to look like this today, like the past three seasons,” says Fort, who imagined Amanda pulling the more comforting pieces out of her designer-filled walk-in closet, which she must have in that amazing apartment.
“But it’s still her,” adds Fort, hinting, “You will see her return to her former glory.”
Betty: the Fashion Star of ‘Will Trent’
Now, we must discuss Betty Maria White Trent, Will’s beloved chihuahua, portrayed by English canine thespian Bluebell, who also played Emma Stone’s dog in Cruella. (Omg, Bluebell even has her own IMDb page.) Will impeccably dresses for self-expression, but he’s not actually the one curating Betty’s fire ‘fits.
“In my mind, Nico has made all of Betty’s costumes,” says Fort, referring to Betty’s live-in dog walker/babysitter and Will whisperer, played by Cora Lu Tran.
Nico, whose style is also on point, must be a proud doggy stylist/co-parent since Betty made the January cover of Vogue’s offshoot, Dogue. (Rodríguez’s comment is too cute!)
Like her doggie dad, Betty’s outfits are also custom-designed based on the setting and occasion, like an action-packed stakeout with Will in the park or dressing for a family dinner. So obviously Bluebell has fittings, and she’s a total pro and champion collaborator.
“She’s totally into it. We have a large work table with a bed on it,” says Fort. “She sits on her little cushion and tries her sweaters on. She knows what she’s doing — she kind of poses. She’s adorable. We all love Betty’s fittings.”
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This makes me so happy. I love Ramón Rodriguez. I have been a huge Karin Slaughter fan for about 2 decades. I keep a strong divide between Will the book and Will the telly character. It gets confusing otherwise!
I am not surprised the suits are bespoke! I love the costumes and I always notice the pops of colour on Iantha. She and Sonja are stunning!
Ooh I love Will Trent - thanks for featuring the costume design! So on point!