The Midlife Men’s Guide to Non-Mid Jeans
Expert advice from the stylist who dresses Wolverine, Ant-Man, and Luke Skywalker for the red carpet, plus the 'And Just Like That' costume designers
Hey WNVM-ers,
Fawnia here! I’m back with more service journalism, inspired by this week’s “And Just Like That,” and my own recent experience with a Gen X denim shopping crisis.
For expert advice, I chatted with the go-to stylist for Hollywood’s best dressed guys (and one of my favorite people), Michael Fisher. His client list includes Gen X icon Ethan Hawke, Oscar Isaac, and David Harbour, plus my millennial faves, Sebastian Stan1, Bowen Yang2, and Matt Rogers. For more tea, I also talked to the show's costume designers, Molly Rogers and Danny Santiago. I know the headline targets Gen X cis, straight men — because they do seem to be the ones who do need the most help — but these tips really are applicable to any and everyone. (I’m definitely using some!)
In housekeeping news, this month marks the one-year anniversary of Whatever Nevermind! Can you believe it? Cheryl and I can’t. So watch this space for a special announcement. And a massive thank you from the both of us to those of you who renewed your paid subscriptions — that's the best birthday present ever — and to all readers for your support this past year. It means the world to us!
And in news, Keanu vs. the crotch, so many things turning 50, and two more music biopics.
Per usual, you may need to read the entire newsletter in your browser. And, if you’re feeling generous, and also want Carrie and Aidan to break the eff up, please give us a heart at the bottom of the post.
When I Wore a Younger Man's Clothes
The definitive shopping guide for Gen X men’s jeans.
By Fawnia
Last month, my husband finally accepted that he desperately needed new jeans — especially considering that one weathered pair he wore to my friend’s wedding last year. Since we were on our Woodbury Common Premium Outlets biannual visit, I suggested Acne Studios, where I’ve had luck.
We arrived, and after some gentle prodding from me, he hesitantly approached the cool, young sales associate, who asked, “What fit are you looking for?”
But, instead of replying with “mid-rise, straight leg,” like we rehearsed at home, my husband froze and stammered, “Um … loose fit?”
To which the cool, young sales associate replied, “Yeaaaah… we don’t really carry loose fit jeans here.”
Then, we walked, in silence, over to the denim section at Saks OFF FIFTH, and my husband just stood there, wide-eyed, and turned to me. “HELP ME. I don’t know what I’m doing!!”
Later, I happened to watch a screener of today’s “And Just Like That” episode. Coincidentally, Harry (Evan Handler) needs cool, new jeans for a late night out in support of wife Charlotte’s (Kristin Davis) networking with her Gen Z colleagues. (Those two are truly goals.)
“DAD, what are you going to wear to ‘da club?’ Your high-waisted mom jeans?” says terrifying teen daughter Lily (Cathy Ang), as she drags her sweet, well-meaning dad to filth.
They agree that the group’s de facto fashion expert Carrie (Sarah Jessica Parker) should shepherd him through the shopping process. But, she does poor, clueless Harry completely dirty by putting him in Japanese selvedge — which speaks more to a Bushwick creative, with the lifestyle, patience, and interest in breaking-in the ultra-rigid denim, than a high-powered Gen X lawyer and busy dad of two.
“These are so stiff, they make me walk like Robocop,” says Harry, making an X-y dad joke — and foreshadowing his denim debacle ahead. (I mean, even I knew better than to even consider suggesting selvedge to my husband.)
Clearly, Gen X men are in need of help! So, to prevent another breakdown in the denim section, or stop you from being a total Carrie and pushing the wrong jeans on a vulnerable X-er dude, stylist Michael Fisher has some essential advice.
Stick With the Classic Washes
“I would always make sure the wash is simple,” says Fisher. For his X-er and beyond clients, he sticks with a dark, medium and/or light wash — maybe black, but no acid-wash, waxed, etc. — for a more casual and relaxed, but still refined and distinguished vibe.
“Obviously, you want something cleaner — no holes, no raggedy [details],” he says. “So it just looks more pulled together and presentable.”
Fisher cautions against any “weird treatments, like whiskers,” those “little crease lines” at the crotch of some jeans. I’m also going to give a big “NO” to those early-aughts-specific, contrast-wash jeans, featuring pesky whiskers and bedazzled back pockets — which dominated the offerings at the Saks OFF FIFTH. No wonder my hubs was so perplexed.
“Just stick to the classics, like from Citizens of Humanity — Hugh Jackman used to always love those — and Levi's and Madewell,” says Fisher. “Stay away from the Nudie Jeans, or whoever makes super-trendy denim.”
Consider the Fabrication
Pay attention to the fabrication, both for comfort and fit. Like, 100% cotton jeans, featuring a full blend of the natural fabric, allow more airflow and breathability, but are also more restrictive than jeans with stretch.
“Bryan Cranston is a huge fan of Citizens of Humanity 4-way stretch,” says Fisher, also name-dropping Adam Driver and James Corden as fans of all-around flexibility, instead of the just left-right-only 2-way stretch. “It holds the shape of the jean a lot better, too.”
Check the label, which may explicitly say “4-way stretch,” or look for 1 to 5% blends of Elastane, Spandex, or Lycra, and possibly with polyester, nylon, or modal thrown in for extra elasticity.
Play it Straight
When it comes to the cut, Fisher suggests staying classic, too.
“I always do a straight leg — no boot-cut or tapered. Just something easy — not too tight, not too loose,” he says. New client and Star Wars legend Mark Hamill, like Cranston, likes the Levi’s 511 styles, which feature a more streamlined silhouette, mid-rise waistline, and a zipper fly.
“Paul Rudd only wears 501s,” adds Fisher, about Levi’s time-honored, straight-leg, with a mid- to high-rise, button-fly jeans.
Think about where, and for what, you’re wearing jeans, too.
“Recently, Michael Shannon was on tour [with Jason Narducy for their] REM cover performances, and we were doing a skinny jean for this rocker vibe,” says Fisher. He dressed Shannon in Citizens of Humanity Gage Slim Straight Perform jeans, with some stretch, for “The Tonight Show With Jimmy Fallon” in January.
“But, if he's then on a press tour and he wants to be comfortable, we're doing more of a straight leg,” continues Fisher. “I don't think any guy is 100% comfortable with the jeans being too tight. So you want a pair of jeans that are just not hugging and holding everything too tight.”
Where the waistline hits is also key to the overall fit. “They're not a dress pant, so always put [the waistline] right below the navel,” says Fisher, suggesting to start with trying on a “mid-rise” jean and go from there.
“Oftentimes, if [the waistline hits too far] below your stomach, the jeans are going to be too loose,” cautions Fisher. “You want to make sure that you don't have this saggy bottom.”
Go to a Tailor
Once you have your waistline and fit all set, hem your jeans. The right length is crucial to an elevated denim look. Don’t worry, it’s not like you have to go to Patrick Bateman or Gordon Gekko’s bespoke suit maker — try your local dry cleaner. Some brands, like Uniqlo, even have in-house alterations services.
Make sure you bring the shoes you’ll wear with the jeans for the tailor to determine the ideal hem length, and ask to replicate the original stitching.
Fisher recommends having the jeans hemmed with a “slight break,” meaning the fabric will touch the top of the shoe with a small, subtle crease, or the time-honored “half break.” The latter’s moderate fold above the shoe also offers versatility, if you want to add a little flair with a one-fold cuff.
“I always do that for Paul Rudd. He likes that,” says Fisher. “It gives them a bit more of an edge, rather than just a straight ‘dad jean.’”
Prepare to Commit!
Maybe the “And Just Like That” writers correctly surmised that an entire episode of Harry trying on countless jeans — as an annoyed Carrie waited for more emoji-only texts from Aidan (John Corbett) — wouldn’t make for great TV. Fair. But, if you’re going to buy new jeans, and maybe even start a denim wardrobe, you need to dedicate the time and effort.
“You have to just commit. ‘This is going to take two hours of my life, and I'm going to have to try on multiple pairs,’” says Fisher. “If it's your first time going out shopping, go to a denim specialist, like Citizens of Humanity, Levi’s, or Paige.”
Go during off-peak hours, like a quiet Tuesday morning, to avoid feeling immediately overwhelmed, and to enjoy the full attention of staffers. If possible, even try a “one-stop-shop” denim retailer, like Levi’s, Todd Snyder, and Brooklyn Denim Co. in Williamsburg, with in-house tailoring at select locations to streamline the process.
“Once you put that work in, and find the brand and the style that works for you, then that's it,” says Fisher. “Just continue to buy that one brand [and fit/s] and then just vary the different colors.”
Incidentally, my husband did just that. He went back to his mainstay, Old Navy, and ordered a new series of dark, medium, and light wash straight-leg jeans — and on his own. (I guess I was being kind of a Carrie by suggesting Acne, huh?)
Finding the Right Jeans for Harry
Of course, Harry’s ill-fated selvedge purchase was written for comedic value. But what would the “And Just Like That” costume designers, Molly Rogers and Danny Santiago, have suggested if Harry was a real person?
Rogers goes a little method for her recommendation for Harry. “If Carrie was a real person and wanted to make him ‘cool’ … he needs to pull it all together,” she says, with a pause. “I like a European look where a guy has a relaxed, but slightly fitted jean, in a lighter wash, and a nice dressed-up polo and then a jacket. But he's not precious. He's still relaxed.”
Santiago envisions an elevated workwear aesthetic from Ralph Lauren’s premium denim line, RRL.
“A vintage-looking jean, with more of a relaxed fit,” he says. “With a beautifully tailored jacket. That definitely is the finishing touch.”
Please note: Occasionally, we use affiliate links on our site, but the picks are objectively our recommendations for what we’d buy ourselves.
We are two Gen X journalists who celebrate people of our generation doing cool things, as well as analyze all the '80s and '90s nostalgia in current pop culture, fashion, and beauty. Read more stories like this one here!
You Oughta Know
In what sounds like a movie made for just me, Nick Jonas, who I consider the best Jonas, is the frontrunner to play KISS frontman Paul Stanley, in a biopic helmed by McG — director of the early-aughts Charlie’s Angels movies and executive producer of “The OC.” They’re still looking for a triple-threat actor to fill the 7-inch tall platforms of Gene Simmons — and I don’t want to know how the casting directors are addressing that tongue situation. -FSH [The Hollywood Reporter]
Kea-news! Reeves hit the Tonys with friend, Bill & Ted alum, and Waiting for Godot Broadway co-star Alex Winter. Our guy also became one of the more viral moments of the night, when Jonathan Groff hopped onto Reeves’ chair and straddled him while performing. -CW [People/E! Online]
Life moves pretty fast: Sotheby’s is auctioning off the famous vest that Matthew Broderick wore in Ferris Bueller’s Day Off. It could go for “several hundred thousand dollars.” Costume designer Marilyn Vance said she bought it for $28 at Marshall Field’s (RIP!!) and cut the sleeves off. -CW [New York Times]
Snoop Dogg, beloved hip hop artist, Olympics commentator, and Martha Stewart BFF, is getting the biopic treatment. Jonathan Daviss will star in the film as young Snoop. -CW [Deadline]
A GQ article featuring Walton Goggins, Pedro Pascal, and Colman Domingo asks the question, “Is it better to get famous in your 50s?” It’s a good read about how these three paid their dues for decades and are just delighted to be where they are in their careers now — and honestly, all three are so deserving. I'm hoping that more women in the industry will manage this feat, because seeing anyone have professional success in their 50s after years of work is pretty inspirational. -CW [GQ]
Related, please watch Pedro call himself a “lazy, 50-year-old bougie bitch” which, honestly, same:
Speaking of being 50, too many things that I vividly remember are turning 50, which is impossible because I am still in my 30s! First, to mark the 50th anniversary of Jaws, a documentary on the making of the film that ruined the ocean for at least three generations of people will air July 10; Steven Spielberg and John Williams both sit for interviews. Then, Talking Heads celebrated the 50th anniversary of their first show (opening for the Ramones at CBGB?!) by releasing their first-ever video for 1977’s “Psycho Killer,” starring Saoirse Ronan. -CW [IndieWire/Stereogum]
So adding Harbour’s Red Guardian and Stan’s Bucky Barnes, plus Isaac’s Poe Dameron and Adam Driver’s Kylo Ren, Michael Fisher counts three Avengers and three Star Wars actors as clients. Did I miss any?
Because WNVM is also an official Bowen Yang fan site.
You can’t really go too far wrong with a pair of Levi’s :-)
Happy one year anniversary!! ✨ Also, this statement is me all the time:
"Speaking of being 50, too many things that I vividly remember are turning 50, which is impossible because I am still in my 30s."