Josh Holloway’s Tight Jeans
The 'Duster' and 'Lost' star on his two favorite '70s outfits, and more with costume designer Dayna Pink.
Hey WNVM-ers,
We’re back! Fawnia here. Hope you all had a restful long weekend, and maybe took the time to binge the 8-episode season of “Duster” on HBO Max (or whatever it's called), starring Josh Holloway. It truly deserved a second season, so ugh with this late-breaking news the night before publish. I’m hoping a streamer will pick it up because I could not get enough of this show — it reminds me of my fave ‘80s shows, plus the ‘70s is my absolute top style era. So I talked to costume designer Dayna Pink about Holloway’s ‘perfect’ vintage Levi’s, ‘70s suits, and more.
Plus, in news: more Gen X podcasts, ‘80s legends dueting with pop newcomers, and the Hot Wheels movie takes shape.
Per usual, you may need to read the entire newsletter in your browser. And, if you’re feeling generous and also thought Sawyer was the best character on ‘Lost,’ please give us a heart at the bottom of the post.
Life in the Fast Lane
Josh Holloway’s tight ‘70s jeans in ‘Duster’ subvert the ‘80s male gaze, plus excellent suits by costume designer Dayna Pink
By Fawnia Soo Hoo
In the late-aughts, I reminisced with my pop culture-obsessed friend Ben Kim — he designed the Whatever Nevermind logo! — about our childhood TV crushes. Baby Ben only had eyes for beautiful ladies in outer space and I had an affinity for blonde white men driving fast cars1: Det. Sonny Crockett (Don Johnson) in “Miami Vice,” Templeton “Faceman” Peck (Dirk Benedict2) in “The A-Team,” and one of the brothers in that car show.
“Oh god, you probably love Sawyer in ‘Lost,’” responded Ben, who I admit was pretty perceptive.
Because I do love Josh Holloway’s scamp-y con-man/antihero with layers! I still wish J.J. Abrams made a procedural buddy-detective spin-off with flash-sideways Sawyer and Ken Leung’s Miles Straume. (And I will go to my grave saying that Holloway should have played Faceman in Joe Carnahan’s 2010 The A-Team movie.)
So, when I saw the retro-looking promo image for Abrams and LaToya Morgan’s “Duster,” I was immediately in. I mean, Holloway as Jim Ellis, another charming rogue with a code and a twinkle in his eye, the always-riveting Rachel Hilson (“This Is Us,” “Love, Victor”) as Nina Hayes, a newbie FBI agent seeking retribution, and Confederate flag-free fast cars?! Inject it into my veins!
Plus, the series is packed with so many Gen X childhood throwbacks, like a double-dose of Adrienne Barbeau — the OG ‘80s scream queen, who started her career as Bea Arthur’s daughter in “Maude” — and the Hot Wheels-referential opening credits. Corbin Bernson, who embodied slick, Porsche-driving divorce attorney Arnie Becker on “L.A. Law,” could not be more perfect as Jim’s dad, Wade, who’s married to ex-showgirl Charlotte, played by “NYPD Blue”’s Donna (Gail O’Grady). I mean …
“The cool thing about this show is that it's grounded in reality, but doesn't have to be reality,” says costume designer Dayna Pink, who also outfitted Jake Gyllenhaal in Elwood Dalton’s silky printed shirts in the 2024 Road House remake. While “Duster” is set in 1972, Pink curated style and pop culture from the entire decade, taking “the best of that spirit and mixing all the ingredients together.”
The New Daisy Dukes
With The Fall Guy-esque action-sequences and quippy humor, “Duster” also reminds me of the ‘80s shows I used to love, but with 2025 updates: more explicit violence, actual representation, and strong women leads, with fully-formed characters. Jim — top-notch get-away driver to Phoenix crime-syndicate boss, Ezra Saxton (Keith David) — is also great with kids and will babysit in a pinch.
The camera regularly, and devotedly, follows Jim striding about, and into his cherry-red 1970 Plymouth Duster — subverting that leering, ‘80s male-gaze. Jim’s form-fitting, high-waisted Levi’s are the new Daisy Duke (Catherine Bach) short-shorts.
“There is definitely something intentional there. It was a really sexy time, and smoke 'em if you got 'em, right?” says Pink.
For Jim’s rugged denim, she took inspiration from Robert Redford in his early-thirst-trap roles, like former rodeo star Sonny in 1979’s The Electric Horseman (that belt!) and, obviously, his shirtless, dark-denim, and aviators moment in 1969’s Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.
“Dayna was so much fun to work with building my character. She's just cool,” says Holloway, over email. “When I put on the clothes I am immediately transported to 1972 — and Jim Ellis comes alive.”
Taking inspiration from notable vintage pieces, Pink custom-built approximately 90% of Holloway’s costumes. But, Jim does wear “one perfect vintage pair” of Levi’s jeans, which receives the spotlight treatment in the hijinks and heist-filled episode five, paired with an a vintage red, white, and blue horse-print shirt.
“They fit him perfectly, were perfectly worn-out, and were perfectly of the era,” adds Pink, who also custom-designed Jim’s white jeans with distinctive original detailing on the back pockets.
“He really got them dirty and did a bunch of stunts in them,” says Pink, who also created multiples of Jim’s jeans for action-sequences and stunt doubles.
Josh Holloway’s Favorite Jim Outfits
“Oh man, a favorite outfit is hard to choose,” says Holloway, who called a tie between two, starting with “the patchwork jacket that I was wearing at Elvis's party” — also Pink’s top pick.
In episode two, Jim oversleeps his alarm to embark on a very eventful 15-hour day. He runs out of the house — pulling on a black t-shirt with those white jeans and tossing a brown-toned patchwork jacket in the backseat.
“I found a vintage patchwork jacket for kids or ladies, and then I bounced off that,” explains Pink. She custom-designed Jim’s shacket with precisely positioned suede, leather, and python-print squares that also foreshadow his upcoming adventures. “We made a bullseye on the back.”
Phoenix’s top wheelman puts his outfits together with intention, as opportunities and assignments arise on the fly — like crashing The King’s celeb-filled pool party.
“Jim doesn't know where he's going to end up that day, so that's why he's always got a blazer or jacket in the car,” says Pink. “So if he needs to walk into a place and feel a little more formal, he's ready to do it for sure.”
Along with fulfilling his dodgy duties for Saxton, Jim reluctantly teams with FBI agent Nina Hayes to uncover the truth behind his brother Joe’s death. He plays multiple sides, and his ambiguously rakish outfits help with his ever-shifting covers. “Everything is a costume, no matter what,” says Pink.
Jim’s Sartorial ‘Miami Vice’ Connection
Speaking of, Holloway’s other favorite look also happens to be mine. “The black shirt, with the embroidery, with the pink leather jacket,” he says. “Epic.”
So, in my imaginary timeline, a decade before Miami’s Sonny Crockett changed the face of fashion in his pastel blazers, Jim Ellis chauffeured Phoenix mob scions and attempted to outrun international assassins in a dusty rose leather jacket, with an embossed flourish above the Western yoke, and a black shirt adorned with vibrant floral embroidery.
“Jim would wear pink. He is confident enough, self-assured, and cheeky,” says Pink, plus the unexpected ‘fits keep his adversaries (or marks) guessing. “You never exactly know what he's thinking.”
Jim’s entire wardrobe is stacked with floral and whimsically-printed shirts. “Things that are not necessarily something that you would think of as ‘badass,’” says Pink. “Yet he puts them on, and it's all badass.”
The rugged-meets-playful Jim aesthetic quickly came together in fittings. “He would put it on, and have that big old smile on his face, and just walk towards the mirror,” says Pink.
Nina’s Power Suits and Heels
Nina Hayes — loosely based on Sylvia Elizabeth Mathis, the first Black woman to become an FBI agent in 1976 — arrives in Phoenix laser-focused on a mission to take down Saxton. Her no-nonsense, but absolutely killer ‘70s pantsuits also telegraph her determination and drive.
“We decided to make her really badass from out of the gate,” says Pink. “She gets off that plane in that suit and scarf, and she means business. She has planned this and she's not going to waste this moment.”
Nina wears her ambitions from head-to-toe, too. “All suits — and all heels,” says Pink, who custom-designed Nina’s collection of platform boots — sometimes combining the stand-out elements of vintage pairs into one new one.
Pink also enjoyed building a hidden holster for a resourceful Nina to hide a self-defense weapon. “She had a knife on or in her boots at all times.”
Nina’s Undercover Alterna-Suits
The resourceful Nina ultimately infiltrates Saxton’s underworld operations, and is prepared with an undercover wardrobe of more suits, like a three-piece black leather pantsuit with brown rick-rack trim on the vest and shirt-jacket, and a long-line blue cotton-twill and white-patterned set.
“A hyped-up version [showing that] Nina is fearless,” says Pink, who also looked to genuine vintage ‘70s suits for Nina’s custom designs. “It wasn't business suits anymore. Now it was ‘taking care of business’ suits.”
In the penultimate episode, Nina attends a Saxton family gathering in a beige and striped shorts-suit, which Pink “reimagined” from a vintage dress.
“We turned it into a little shorts outfit with a tunic, because that was so of the moment in that time,” says Pink. Hilson is also a fan — calling the look “so freaking dreamy” on Instagram. So did Nina make a quick shopping run for the sting operation?
“Maybe that is her alter ego,” says Pink, imagining Nina wore the looks during off-hours.
Awan’s Low-Key Suits and Lost Leather Jacket
Within the Phoenix FBI old (white) boys club, Nina’s paired with the principled, loyal, and tech-savvy Navajo agent Awan Bitsui (Asivak Koostachin). The duo give support and mutual respect to each other, while challenging the racism and misogyny within the bureau — and greater society.
Awan expresses respect for his job, and quietly takes up space, through immaculately tailored neutral-toned suits and wide-brim hats. But, reflecting the discrimination and macro-microaggressions at the office, Awan’s understated colors and prints don’t rock the boat, unlike the “flashy” suits and “loud” ties of bigoted, and definitely shady, office antagonist Grant (Dan Tracy).
“Awan had to be a little more subtle, but he also had some floral shirts and really beautiful patterns,” says Pink.
In episode three, Awan wears my favorite outfit, featuring a sublime brown leather zip-up jacket, with intricately embroidered embellishments above the Western yoke, and a butterfly-print tie. Investigating a lead, he and Nina change into hospital uniform disguises, but then need to make a quick exit. All I could think was, “Did Awan leave his jacket there?!”
“That was us! We were like, ‘Can he grab it on his way out?’” exclaims Pink. “The leather cut-out was inspired by a vintage piece, and that was my favorite jacket for him, as well.”
I’m still devastated at the non-renewal news because I was hoping for Awan to recover his jacket, plus a Jim/Nina/Awan team-up, and more ‘70s costumes! Sob. (I will forever cherish all the Jim Ellis-outfit collages I made to promote this story.)
“Dayna Pink is a legend,” says Holloway. “Her work on our show was such a large part of creating that world of the seventies.”
We are two Gen X journalists who celebrate people of our generation doing cool things, as well as analyze all the '80s and '90s nostalgia in current pop culture, fashion, and beauty. Read more stories like this one here!
You Oughta Know
For more “Duster” costumes, and a clear shot of the bullseye on one of Holloway’s favorite jackets, venture over to this excellent Dayna Pink interview. -FSH [Meet Me At Crafty]
Possibly the most in-your-face Easter egg in the “Duster” opening credits: J.J. Abrams is producing a presumably Barbie-esque Hot Wheels movie and tapped Wicked’s Jon M. Chu to direct. -FSH [The Hollywood Reporter]
A documentary about Olivia Newton-John is hitting Netflix. Oooohhhhhh I CANNOT WAIT for this one. It’s giving me a heart attack! (Yes, I even like that song.) -CW [Deadline]
Kea-news! Reeves wore Merrell Moab hiking boots (invented in the ‘80s!) on the red carpet. They’re the same ones I wear as I’m questing for Catskills 3500 Club peak-bagging glory. Get the waterproof ones. Keanu knows! -CW [GQ]
In the latest Gen X podcast news, Idris Elba and Amy Poehler bond over growing up in the ‘80s. Speaking of noir murder shows and broody protagonists, Matthew Goode imagines that his “Dept. Q” character, DCI Morck, splashes on Davidoff Cool Water as his signature scent. “Because it’s not super expensive and it’ll make him smell all right.” -FSH [Happy Sad Confused]
We have another addition to our Gen X podcast recommendation list: Music writer and friend of WNVM, Thea Wood (whose stellar newsletter is devoted to women in the music industry), interviewed Berlin’s Terri Nunn. Great introspection, and I love how she said she has tried to stay true to her new wave roots. I was already Team Terri after listening to Richard Blade’s (the KROQ DJ who is her ex) memoir, and this cemented it. -CW [Herizon Music]
This mini-trend of young singers dueting with ‘80s legends is a good thing. In the past couple weeks, Olivia Rodrigo and Robert Smith sang “Friday I’m in Love” and “Just Like Heaven” at Glastonbury. Then, Sabrina Carpenter and Duran Duran teamed up for “Hungry Like the Wolf” at Carpenter's show in London. -CW [Instagram and Instagram]
Please note: Occasionally, we use affiliate links on our site, but the picks are objectively our recommendations for what we’d buy ourselves.
It was the '80s, OK?
Benedict also played the OG Starbuck in the late-’70s “Battlestar Galactica” that I definitely watched in reruns.
Ooh, I am so in for this fashion coverage, Fawnia! We have been PVRing (I know, lol), and I can’t wait to binge it! I love 70s fashion and the first printed shirt reminds me so much of a stagecoach print one my dad had back then.💕
Another A+, fantastic article, thank you!
I enjoyed this series so much, watching it back to back with Poker Face was perfect self programming. People forget how good so much 70's fashion was, it wasn't all Brady Bunch paisley horrors, there were so many sexy, slouchy louche silhouettes along with belted jackets that lent a structure to a pair of jeans and a dress shirt.