Hello WNVM-ers!
Let’s just jump right in today.
First up, Fawnia greatly enjoyed revisiting Paula Abdul’s late-’80s/early-’90s video oeuvre — Keanu Reeves alert!! — in preparation for talking to the two-time Grammy and Emmy winner about her summer concert tour wardrobe. Costume designer and “Dress My Tour” judge Marina Toybina honors the classics (no pants), but with new twists, and prevents any wardrobe malfunctions throughout Abdul’s famous high-energy choreo.
Then, Cheryl explores the “broccoli hair” phenomenon that has run amok on teen boys’ heads everywhere. She welcomes the opportunity to finally join the Gen Z perm discourse and, obviously, traces the look’s roots (stalks?) to a few different ‘80s hair trends.
Read to the end for some Harry Connick Jr. news and to discover what the hell “Nirvana Waves” are.
Forever Your Girl
Paula Abdul and costume designer Marina Toybina update the classics for the icon’s summer tour
By Fawnia
Cue the *record scratch* from the top of “Straight Up:” National treasure Paula Abdul is in the midst of “The Magic Summer Tour,” with New Kids on The Block. She’s also back in the reality competition show judging seat with a guest spot on Hulu’s “Dress My Tour.” It’s the Summer of Paula — and she’s bringing her signature style with her. (I mean, the multi-hyphenate was already doing the oversize blazer-and-no-pants thing in her aforementioned breakout 1989 video.)
Now, I know there's a generation or two that mostly celebrate Abdul as a reality show judging staple, dispensing her trademark empathy, optimism, and encouraging bon mots — like “when you wish upon a star, you might become one,” from her eight seasons on “American Idol.” But, I admit that this stretch of her enduring career is not actually how I think of her. (I just don’t really watch reality competition shows, except for “Rock of Love” seasons one and two. But that's another conversation.)
Abdul earned my lifelong admiration much earlier, as an influential and all-present figure during my formative years. Her innovative and electrifying dancing and choreography, for the likes of Janet Jackson and George Michael, filled my obsessively interminable MTV watch sessions. Not to mention, the double-Emmy-winning choreographer and overall multi-hyphenate has been an absolute powerhouse through all the shit that she’s prevailed over all these years.
In the name of research, I revisited Abdul’s videography and honestly, her catchy songs and impressive moves still slap. Before he went all head-in-the-box, murder-y, David Fincher even directed her first two videos from 1988’s “Forever Your Girl” album, starting with the black-and-white-shot “Straight Up.” (Still a banger!) Then came the Bob Fosse-inspired “Cold Hearted,” which still feels gritty, steamy, and spicy three decades-plus later. (Side note: Do I need to look further into the S7ven and Mank auteur’s ‘80s music video oeuvre, which includes Foreigner and Christopher Cross?!) I swear, even with the janky green screen, 1991’s “Promise of a New Day” walked so J. Lo’s “Waiting for Tonight” could run. And, crowning glory: For her ballad “Rush Rush,” the VISIONARY cast a post-Bill and Ted’s, and pre-Point Break Keanu fucking Reeves as the James Dean in her ambitious ode to “Rebel Without a Cause.” (Omg this clip of the duo breaking into a giggle fit during a night shoot is uh-dorable. They’re evergreen.)
I’m not the only one Abdul made an early impression on.
“The ‘Opposites Attract’ video music came out when I was eight or nine years old, and still back in Moscow,” says costume designer Marina Toybina, about Abdul’s Grammy-winning 1990 video, which pioneered combining animation — in the form of MC Skat Cat and friends — with spirited live action. “I remember that video was so special to me.” Honestly, the visuals still look seamless,and Abdul’s slouchy pinstripe pantsuit, with a shirt and tie, is on point.
Fast forward and Toybina eventually worked with her on “So You Think You Can Dance” and “The Masked Singer.” The duo reunited by happenstance on “Dress My Tour,” with the seven-time Emmy winner as a first-time judge and Abdul, as a guest emeritus.
“It was so wonderful to just be reconnected, and to have her support,” says Toybina, who’s created performance outfits for the likes of Katy Perry and Carrie Underwood, plus award-winning costumes for the H.E.R. and Josh Groban-starring “Beauty and the Beast: a 30th Celebration.” The reunion led to Toybina designing the wardrobe for Abdul’s run on “The Magic Summer Tour,” which segues into solo Canadian shows through October.
“I wanted to draw inspiration from my classic songs and personal style, showcasing my evolution as an artist,” says Abdul, about discussing her costume vision with Toybina. “Elements from ‘Straight Up’ inspired bold shapes and edgy details that capture that unforgettable ‘80s vibe.”
To research, Toybina rewatched the iconic videos, but more so to study Abdul’s fleet-footed and precise movements. The costume designer also clocked Abdul’s fashion hallmarks: power-shoulder blazers and leg-baring, corseted silhouettes. “I knew [the result] had to be some sort of a bodysuit,” says Toybina.
She ultimately created a futuristic warrior goddess look for Abdul’s “hero” costume, worn for the majority of the show. The gunmetal lycra bodysuit shimmers and stands out on-stage with intricate crystal and sequin-embellishments, architectural straps and line-work, and strategic cut-outs. For dramatic reveals and breakaways, Toybina added a detachable skirt and shoulders. Plus, an oversized orange blazer and black floppy hat serve as props, of sorts, to propel the storytelling forward.
“Each song has its own mood and energy, and the costumes reflect that,” explains Abdul. “For upbeat, high-energy numbers, the outfits are vibrant and bold to match the music's intensity. For more soulful songs, the designs are elegant and intricate, capturing the essence of the lyrics.”
As the frenetic beats of her dance floor hits slow down into “Rush Rush,” Abdul transforms into a edgy-glam take on romantic Old Hollywood. Toybina ingeniously reconstructed a black and gold beaded gown, from L.A.’s For the Stars, into a halter-topped bodysuit silhouette with ethereal illusion paneling and overlay.
To close out her show with a spectacular finale montage, Abdul dons a roaring ‘20s-esque mesh illusion and a crystal-encrusted mini-mini-dress from The Residency Experience, a go-to for Lady Gaga.
But the real test ensures that the outfits stay on, and intact, so Abdul can focus on her flawless rapid high-kicks — and be gracefully spun around, upside down, by backup dancers. “The mobility in the designs allows me to fully express myself through dance, making every performance feel dynamic and alive,” she says.
So Toybina essentially dismantled and completely remade both dresses into versatile, flexible and durable stage pieces that also look amazing from an audience vantage point. Stage wardrobe is a completely different beast than fashion, or television and film costume design, as also showcased on “Dress My Tour.” The process is like engineering; incorporating sneaky, stretchy gussets to allow for extreme movement and flexibility, reworking and reinforcing seams, adding foundation layers for coverage, taking off sleeves, raising hemlines, and more.
“Turning a couture gown into a dance performance costume is my least, yet favorite thing to do,” says Toybina, who was also hand-embellishing backup fishnets for Abdul prior to the Zoom. “[We] take the whole thing apart, lay it out, and figure out the important details: What closures and zippers need to go in, what undergarments and bases need to be built back in, etc.”
But most importantly, Abdul values her stage ensembles for boosting her confidence and bringing her closer to her fans. “Ultimately, the costumes help me channel the emotions of my songs, allowing me to connect deeply with the audience,” says Abdul. “And make each performance truly unforgettable.”
The Boys of Summer
Let’s find the ‘80s connections to the “broccoli perm”
By Cheryl
Two weeks ago my 21-year-old son, home from school for the summer, came back from working out in our building’s gym. I asked him if he saw anyone we knew down there. His response: “Nah, just a couple of broccoli heads.” I looked at him blankly. This happens a lot with my two sons when they say words to me.
He explained. Broccoli hair is curly and puffy on top and short on the sides, evoking the shape of its cruciferous veggie namesake. The very next day, I saw GQ’s story titled, “How the Broccoli Perm Became the Definitive Zoomer Hairstyle.” I definitely know what the cut is, but I hadn’t ever heard this name for it, despite the fact I can now find references to it from at least 2022.
I’ve been aware of the general teen boy perm trend for years, because I’ve been living it. My younger son, 19, has one. (More on this later.) So do many of his friends. I’ve been wanting to find a way to write about it here at WNVM, because in high school in the ‘80s, I got a perm every four months. (Evidence here.) The treatment has essentially become a symbol of the decade, and I have been really fascinated by its reincarnation in teen boys. I thought maybe it was old news, because mainstream outlets have been covering the phenomenon for a few years. But in addition to the recent GQ article, this week Jennifer Sullivan at The Cut wrote a delightful story in which she interviewed a bunch of permed tweens, so we are clearly at peak perm.
The consensus seems to be that this current wave (heh) of young guys with straight hair getting perms is inspired by K-pop stars who started sporting the style in the mid-2010s. Korean salons have been at the forefront of giving floppy cuts anchored by soft curls produced with a deft touch of the perm rods. There is the broccoli, but also soft mullets and wolf cuts and “down perms,” which involve relaxing Asian hair that has a tendency to stick out on the sides, while giving the top some curl and volume. It looks a lot like the mushroom or butt cut, seen on countless teen heartthrobs in the ‘90s.
But we are here to talk about the broccoli shape, specifically. These two Reddit comments on threads about broccoli hair pretty much describe my reaction upon seeing kids with this style:
If there is one thing I love, it is a situation where everything leads back to the ‘80s. What I love even more is an opportunity to talk about Depeche Mode. Martin Gore has had a broccoli cut for 40 years, though the diameter and mass of the florets up top has downsized. (I was so enamored of his hair that I wanted it myself.) Yes, Tears For Fears had it too. The cut reads very new wave to me, though a lot of the bands from that era had short or slicked back sides and swoopy hair on top that wasn’t necessarily curly.
As far as what teens were doing, hair bands were getting huge perms in the ‘80s; teen boys weren’t. But the early broccoli was there. Two geek-to-chic boy makeovers from ‘80s teen rom-coms both feature the cut: Anthony Michael Hall in Weird Science (1985) and Patrick Dempsey in Can’t Buy Me Love (1987). The tall cute guy who played soccer at my high school had the cut, too. And a viral tweet posted on X this week features an alleged photo of Kamala Harris’ husband, Doug Emhoff, in the ‘80s with, yep, the broccoli. So while it wasn’t a ubiquitous style for young men of the era, the fluffy-on-top-shorter-on-the-sides look was a thing for a certain kind of boy who had the hair texture to pull it off, though it was less severely cut on the sides than the modern version.
I also think the current broccoli cut shape owes a lot to the ‘80s high top fade popularized by early hip hop artists, rappers, and, of course, Grace Jones. That was a more geometric, flat look — Kid N’ Play is probably the most extreme example — than the broccoli, and it didn’t quite have the same hair-to-neck ratio that the current broccoli cut has. But the fade technique, which has been perfected and iterated on by Black barbers in the ensuing decades, appears on broccoli cuts and countless other contemporary men’s styles. A current Axe ad shows two modern versions of a high top fade, both looking very broccoli-shaped, more full and rounded at the crown than the ‘80s version.
A recent inspiration I’ve seen mentioned for the broccoli cut is Kansas City Chiefs quarterback Patrick Mahomes, who’s had some version of the “Mahomes Mohawk Fade” since his college days. TikTokers have clocked his influence on the broccoli craze, and I found videos tracing the trend to him, especially in younger boys. A quick search of TikTok reveals several moms allowing their 8- and 9-year-old tow-headed kids to get perms, while name-checking Mahomes in the reveal. Sports figures are often inspirations for young men, as in this story I wrote about soccer hair, one of my favorite ever (and I think that is a baby broccoli cut on Cristiano Ronaldo).
This look is definitely popular on young guys I see around. Even the new Superman, David Corenswet, rocks a broccoli cut as Clark Kent. The internet mocks and memes the style now, and the GQ article suggested boys may be moving to a softer look. My kid’s perm, which he got at a K-town salon, is cut into almost a mini-mullet, a looser Kirk Cameron. He says it feels “surfer” to him, and he’s right. It’s this:
Maybe we can call the next iteration of the boy perm the “Swayze.”
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You Oughta Know
Occasional British accent and pantsuit icon Gillian Anderson walks us through her most-‘90s red carpet highlights with this perfectly soundtracked montage. Spot the requisite Y2K whale tail, plus other looks that have definitely resurfaced on a Hadid and/or Jenner. [TikTok]
Who’s seen Twisters?! Director Lee Isaac Chung says it’s a standalone from the 1996 hit, but 19 Easter egg homages abound in the Glen Powell blockbuster, including Daisy Edgar-Jones’ vintage baseball t-shirt. (Her Pat Benatar one implies borrowing from Maura Tierney’s cool-mom closet, per costume designer Eunice Jera Lee.) [EW.com]
In other Twister news, a photo editor deserves major kudos for figuring out that Keanu Reeves just wore an outfit remarkably similar to one he wore to the original tornado movie’s 1996 premiere, right down to the hiking boots. [GQ]
Substacker Erin Carlson interviews screenwriter and director Stelana Kliris about her Netflix rom com, Find Me Falling. The evergreen Harry Connick Jr. inspires Hope Floats warm and fuzzies, plus vacation inspo as a washed up rock star finding love — and himself — on the picturesque island of Cyprus. [You’ve Got Mail]
Extreme side-eye for this “Nirvana waves” trend story featuring “tousled, undone curls” that are somehow not classic beach waves but rather are grungier, hence the name. [Women’s Health]
Ryan Reynolds and Hugh Jackman had to make a pilgrimage to Madonna’s house to ask her permission to use “Like a Prayer” in Deadpool & Wolverine. In a rare move, she granted it, and also suggested a note for the scene that the duo incorporated into the final version. [People]
If you ever wanted a purse made out of shiny mesh featuring Pac-Man characters, you’re in luck. (We have to admit the bag charms are very cute.) [Glomesh]
Nailed it with the origins of the broccoli cut (damn, these labels are so ridiculous!). I kept seeing visions of Neil Tennant from The Pet Shop Boys but DM’s Martin Gore is more on point 👌
Cheryl..loved the broccoli head article but having a little trouble relating..perhaps an article on hair envy for older bald guys..