Hey WNVM-ers,
It's Fawnia again, as Cheryl is OOO. This week, I investigate if we are, indeed, in the midst of an official ‘80s Fashion Revival™ — considering the ubiquity of bubble skirts and power-shoulders and the imminent threat of a capri pants invasion.
A quick programming note: We’re taking Thursday, May 22 off for Memorial Day, but will ease our way back on May 29.
And in news, the latest on the long-gestating Madonna biopic and a Ferris Bueller reunion.
Per usual, you may need to read the entire newsletter in your browser. And, if you’re feeling generous, and strongly oppose a capri pant-return (or hate bubble skirts, like Cheryl does), please give us a heart at the bottom of the post.
Is This the ‘50s…or 1999?
If bubble skirts, power-shoulders, and capris are trending, are the ‘80s actually back?
By Fawnia

Confession: I have lately found myself shopping off Substack for vintage picks from Best Friends and the coolest indie finds on Latin Zine by Talía Cu. (It’s research and supporting the community!) From a recent round-up by the latter, I bought a somewhat conceptual but ridiculously fun bubble romper, made from deadstock ‘80s fabric by Mexico City-based Roberto Sanchez. (To which Cheryl remarked, “‘Bubble romper’ strikes fear into my heart, Fawnia.”)
Then it felt like bubble skirts were everywhere — Gap, The Frankie Shop on my Instagram feed, the fashion and bridal runways, and Jen Baden Howard’s The Midlife Beauty Edit, which sent me to Marks & Sparks in London to try on a red bubble maxi-skirt.
Simultaneously, the Financial Times informed us that “The Shoulder Pad is Back. Yes, Really,” specifically attributing the silhouette to the reign of Alexis Carrington Colby, and “Miami Vice.” Miley Cyrus’ recent jaunt to Paris included a Saint Laurent Fall 2025 leather jacket with linebacker shoulders, which launched a slew of mini-think pieces about the return of “‘80s power dressing.” The 32-year-old former Disney kid then proceeded to unveil more of the decade’s hallmarks: a very Jami Gertz-in-Less Than Zero, ruched off-the-shoulder mini-dress (also Saint Laurent) and an acid-washed denim Alaïa coat. Never mind that a controversial capris pant resurgence looms large — perhaps confirmed with Anne Hathaway’s Met Gala after-party look. (What would Miranda Priestly say?!)
Recent headlines proclaim a full-on fashion return to the ‘80s, but … it's complicated. For starters, “certain trends gain momentum for deeper cultural reasons,” says Sarah Collins, Assoc. Chair of Fashion Marketing and Management and Assoc Chair of Luxury & Brand Management at SCAD. So let’s take a look — or listen.
Let the Music Play
What we’re hearing on our algorithm-fed Spotify playlists may also be influencing what we feel like wearing. Collins points out the “natural synergy” of “Only In My Dreams”-era Debbie Gibson-esque bubble skirts and Duran Duran-beloved shoulder-padded suits with today’s ‘80s-referential bangers, like Dua Lipa's “Training Season” and Bruno Mars + Lady Gaga's “Die With a Smile.” (I’ll put the synth-y discography of Chappell Roan and the very ‘80s New Wave-sounding Nation of Language on that list, too.)
“As musicians incorporate these ‘80s sounds, the corresponding fashion sensibilities follow, creating a complete cultural feedback loop between what we're hearing and what we're wearing,” says Collins.
Power Station
“The comeback of exaggerated shoulders provides an interesting historical pattern,” adds Collins. “This silhouette has consistently emerged when women were claiming space in male-dominated areas.”
With women entering the workforce in record numbers during the Industrial Revolution, and the (white women) Suffragette movement of the 1890s, restrictive and overly-ornamental Victorian sleeves expanded into big leg ‘o mutton puffs and power-shoulders. During World War II, menswear-inspired skirt suits with confident shoulders became en vogue as women tackled the essential industrial jobs while the men fought overseas. And, of course, in the Working Girl-defined ‘80s, ladies in shoulder-padded, skirt suits and Reeboks began trailblazing into c-suite roles.
“Today's revival of bold shoulders coincides with renewed attention to women's issues on multiple fronts,” says Collins. “We're seeing more open discussions about previously taboo health topics like perimenopause and reproductive rights.” She also cites the continued evolution of #MeToo, and glaring labor and childcare inequities.
“Women are communicating through their clothing — taking up space — and saying, "We're here, and we're not backing down,” says Collins.
It's All About the Benjamins
Similar to The Hemline Index (i.e., short skirts in flush times, long in depressed) the proliferation of ‘80s fashion signatures could also be a sartorial harbinger of our precarious economic situation right now. Collins compares socio-economic "parallels" of the Reagan era to today — also as discussed in my investigation into the return of ‘80s-style comfy mystery TV shows.
“Both eras feature economic uncertainty, technological disruption, and social polarization,” she says. “The bold, confident silhouettes of ‘80s fashion resonate as a form of visual empowerment during uncertain times.”
For a more recent example, look to the late-aughts. The Great Recession begat what the kids now refer to as, “Indie Sleaze,” which mixed ‘90s grunge with ‘80s glam-rock and punk elements: sparkly lamé and gleaming liquid leggings, ripped jeans, studded leather, and skinny scarves.
We’ve seemingly evolved into another ‘80s redux, but in the form of the American Psycho and Wall Street-aligned “Boom Boom,” as coined by Substack’s 8Ball. In other words, when things feel bleak, we lift ourselves up with our outfits — dress for the economy and political situation that you want!
Girls Just Wanna Have Fun
Back in February, I went to the AKNVAS Fall 2025 runway show at New York Fashion Week and immediately felt a dopamine boost seeing designer Christian Juul Nielsen’s roll-out of bubble silhouettes in rich metallic brocades, sleek silk satins, and, oh yes, acid-washed denim. “I actually call it, ‘snow-washed,’” says Nielsen.
As for the bubble flourish, “it just feels fun, fresh, and modern now,” says Nielsen, who interpreted the flouncy volume on mini-dresses, hot pants, peplum tops, and a pink tulle high-low ball-gown skirt that I really want.
Of course, we’ve lived through two cycles of the bubble — in the ‘80s and then 2010-ish, post-Great Recession. (I totally had a black drop-waist one from Urban Outfitters.) It's not new to us. But, the bubble feels new and novel to 13-year-old Lexi — who recently picked out a cute and polished LBD from Princess Polly for a special occasion. “I like [the bubble skirt] because it made the black dress less boring,” she explains, via text.
So they can appeal to a kid from Gen Alpha experiencing the bubble for the first time and Gen X-ers on our third go-round.
“[A bubble skirt is] playful and over-the-top,” says Collins. “A way of saying, ‘I'm going to enjoy myself, no matter what else is happening in the world.’”
For those of us with memories of wearing it during our formative years, “the bubble skirt represents more than just a trend — it's a reminder of a seemingly simpler time before adult responsibilities,” says Collins. Fair point, too, considering that Gen X-ers are adulting with a litany of responsibilities: elder and childcare, our own health, the New York Times trolling us about the uncertain job market, etc.
“Fashion has always transcended mere clothing. It tells stories and expresses feelings when words aren't enough,” she continues. “The bubble skirt isn't just a garment — it's a small rebellion, a memory, and a moment of joy all in one.”
Claiming Space
Similar to Lexi, fashion brands look for distinctive details to stand out in a competitive market. During the 1980s recession, designers had to think outside of the box to resonate with consumers. ''We can't just design basic clothes,'' said designer Calvin Klein to the New York Times in 1982. ''Because there's no reason for women to buy them.'' Fellow designer Perry Ellis found that his clientele wanted “more unusual clothing,” he told the NYT, ''the special items which encourage us to move in the direction of more advanced design.'' So, both designers had to walk the fine line of creating pieces that were just interesting enough, but ultimately classic to easily blend into clients’ existing wardrobes — or “investment clothing.”
I read that article just before talking to New York City-based Shwetambari Mody. “Where I'm at as a designer, I want to be a bit more directional, and have these strong shapes,” says Mody, almost echoing Perry Ellis and Calvin Klein before her — and interestingly relying on recognizable ‘80s signatures to do just that. For her neutral-palette-filled Fall 2025 collection, Mody offers elegant, sophisticated, and versatile takes on the bubble skirt: a streamlined ankle-length dress and halter-topped asymmetrical minis. She’s also incorporated sculptural statement shoulders in her last two collections.
“I wanted to be powerful without being in your face,” says Mody. “This is who I want to be, and this is who I want my person to be: someone who's strong and yet has a quiet confidence and is willing to take risks in fashion, in life, and not cower down to what the world thinks of them.”
Back in Time
All that said, it would seem like an ‘80s renaissance is upon us. But … not so fast.
“It’s funny, when you think about the strong shapes, the ‘80s do come to mind,” says Mody, herself a child of the ‘80s. “I didn't consciously [take inspiration from that decade], though.”
For his AKNVAS “Fragmented Royalty” collection, Nielsen actually is referencing bloomers, from the late-1800s, not 1980s, for his bubbly shorts and skirts. “They remind me of royalty and underwear from the past that people in the castles would wear,” says Nielsen, who looked to three 19th century Danish princesses. He did, however, think to the ‘90s when John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood took aristocratic inspiration from centuries past for their opulently revolutionary ball gowns.
“Today, trends emerge and fade rapidly, allowing elements from nearly every 20th-century decade to coexist simultaneously,” says Collins.
Because oversize, shoulder-padded suits can also be attributed to the ‘90s — see most recently: Ayo Edebiri in a 1990 Julia Roberts-inspired Loewe gray pantsuit at the Golden Globes. The power-shoulder resurgence has been going strong since February 2018, at the height of #MeToo, when Demna Gvasalia sent his exaggerated silhouettes and slouchy suits down the Balenciaga Fall 2018 runway. The strong shoulder also holds significance as an emblem of the Harlem Renaissance in the 1930s, with Zoot suits expressing Black pride and defiance of the establishment during the Jim Crow era — celebrated recently at the Met Gala honoring the new Costume Institute exhibit “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.”
And I’d argue capri pants are most associated with the ‘50s, when costume designer Edith Head popularized the polarizing trouser by dressing Audrey Hepburn in them for 1953’s Roman Holiday and 1954’s Sabrina. (I immediately thought of Hepburn, and not Olivia Newton-John in Grease, when I saw Hathaway’s post-Met Gala pics.)
“I believe these are separate trends converging to create an overall ‘80s aesthetic,” says Collins. “As for which came first, I think individual trends emerged separately before growing into the larger ‘‘80s revival.’”
Another confession: I already have a bubble romper, from my favorite San Francisco vintage dealer Ver Unica, that probably lived a first life in the 1960s as an undergarment or sleepwear. I bought it in 2021, and finally wore it last year. My point being that we’re constantly in a revival of multiple earlier decades — not just one. Fashion continues to borrow and recycle from the past — over and over again — like the looping space-time continuum in Back to the Future or Terminator.
We are two Gen X journalists who celebrate people of our generation doing cool things, as well as analyze all the '80s and '90s nostalgia in current pop culture, fashion, and beauty. Read more stories like this one here!
You Oughta Know
Davidoff’s campaign for its new fragrance, Cool Elixir, stars brand ambassador, and my other boyfriend, Charles Melton, and looks like a near-carbon copy of those Cool Water ads from the mid-‘90s. I feel extremely targeted and I’m not mad about it! -FSH [Instagram/Charles Melton]
A biographical Madonna thing might finally be coming to our screens. While the feature film, starring a pitch-perfect Julia Garner, seems to be on hold, our favorite Material Girl has partnered with Netflix for a “limited series about her life.” Garner may still play the lead, but it’s all very “alleged” at this point. If this does not include the “Like a Virgin” era and deep intel about her “Papa Don’t Preach” pixie cut, I’m not watching. -CW [Deadline]
You had me at “Michelle Yeoh is set to do some ass kicking in scrubs.” (In her new movie, The Surgeon, debuting at Cannes.) -CW [Variety]
Michael J. Fox wrote a book (available October 2025) about that time when he filmed “Family Ties” during the day and Back to the Future at night. It will include interviews with the cast and crew of both. Immediate pre-order for me. -CW [Macmillan]
Aw, designer Marc Jacobs took to Instagram to debut his brand new broccoli perm. He reminisced about trying to give himself a Toni home perm in the ‘70s and being confronted with homophobic slurs from his dad. It’s never too late for self-expression. -CW [Instagram]
Ferris Bueller buds Matthew Broderick and Alan Ruck (oh YEAHHHH) are reuniting for a film called The Best Is Yet to Come. It is sadly not about what happened to Ferris and Cameron 40 years later, one of the few ‘80s sequels I might be enthusiastic about. (Justice for Jennifer Grey, a standout from Ferris who deserves her big comeback role.) -CW [Deadline]
Icon Janet Jackson will receive the ICON honor and hit the stage at the “2025 American Music Awards” — her first performance on TV since 2018. Added bonus: Fellow national treasure Jennifer Lopez will host the show, airing at 8pm ET on Memorial Day, May 26, on CBS and streaming on P+. -FSH [WNVM inbox]
Please bring on the capri pants. As a short, capris are just pants I don't have to pay an additional $15 to have hemmed.
"We’re constantly in a revival of multiple earlier decades — not just one. Fashion continues to borrow and recycle from the past — over and over again — like the looping space-time continuum in Back to the Future or Terminator."
Loved this! And something I've come to learn each time I read your posts.