Hello WNVM-ers,
August is flying by, and we’re having a case of the September Scaries —anxiety over the pressures and expectations of another fiscal year. But we’re manifesting goals over here: an Instagram follow from Jon Bon Jovi and Peloton sponsorship. (They do so many good ‘80s/’90s music-themed classes, it's a no brainer!) Dream big right? What about you?
Let’s get into this week’s issue, first with Fawnia talking to the Netflix hit show’s costume designer about the Gen X-meets-Z style and ‘90s-referential outfits. Then Cheryl keeps us updated on X-er news, so read all the way to the end for Huey Lewis, Milli Vanilli, the Smashing Pumpkins, the Satanic Panic, bodily functions we do not want to associate with Mario Lopez, and much more.
Dear Mama
A Good Girl’s Guide to Murder costume designer Charlotte Mitchell breaks down Pip and her mom Leanne’s bold wardrobes, both of which I want
By Fawnia
My two favorite TV genres of all time are teen stories, for the evergreen universal storytelling and expressive fashion, and Britbox/Acorn-y mysteries because, I don’t know, murder show, murder show. Hey, some kids grow up watching sports with their parents; I had Sunday night “Masterpiece Mystery” appointments with my Anglophile dad. And, my mom always loved teen movies, like I remember her just smiling through reruns of Amanda Bynes’ (and Colin Firth’s) What a Girl Wants. I once asked her why she was so into teen stuff, and she responded, “Because everyone’s good looking, and there's always a happy ending.” Fair! She would have loved The (old) CW and hated “Euphoria” plotlines.
Anyway, my point is: When the BBC teen mystery series “A Good Girl’s Guide to Murder” hit Netflix, I quickly binged it — as did my X-er friends, and a couple Substackers. (I see you!) Based on a popular YA book series by Holly Jackson, the show follows the intrepid 17-year-old Pippa “Pip” Fitz-Amobi (“Wednesday”’s Emma Myers, doing a fantastic English accent). She’s determined to find the real culprit of a five-year-old murder that's traumatized her small town. The six-episode series — why are Brit shows so short?! — checks all of my boxes: youthful self-discovery journeys that still feel so fresh, endearing chemistry amongst an archetypal friend group, realization that parents are also real people, surprising twists, and notable style thanks to costume designer Charlotte Mitchell.
I also found that I wanted to dress like Pip and her mom — or mum — Leanne, played by British period show icon, Anna Maxwell Martin. (Loved her in “The Bletchley Circle” and the “Pride and Prejudice” PD James fanfic mystery, “Death Comes to Pemberley.”) I mean, it makes sense. With her ruggedly cute outfits, the teen Brett Easton-Ellis fan puts her own distinctive twists on hallmarks of the ‘90s, which I’ve been revisiting lately. (Although, I’m a Jay McInerny and Douglas Coupland girlie.) Leanne is a free-thinking Gen X-er, who enjoys experimenting with fashion within the practicality of her daily obligations — also relatable.
So, I slid into Mitchell’s DMs to find out more about my favorite Pip and Leanne looks and how the duo’s shared affinity for oversized chunky knits, bold graphic prints, and eclectic mix-and-mismatching illustrates their close relationship. Plus, Mitchell — who designed season two of “Killing Eve” and one of my fave Brit murder shows, “Endeavor” — and I are totally on the same page.
“I'm a massive ‘90s person,” she says. “I went to art college in the ‘90s. That was my time.”
But Pip’s Skater-Raver Aesthetic Isn’t Actually ‘90s-inspired
In the premiere, Pip proves to not be a proficient accomplice during an underage booze run, and makes the unexpected decision to solve a murder for her pre-university independent research project. She stands strong in her convictions in her Levi’s overalls with one-strap subversively unhooked, but not in homage to Kelly Kapowski or “Fresh Prince of Bel Air” Will Smith.
“She was wearing things in her way. She didn't just conform to mainstream society fashion and she wasn't trying to be street or edgy,” says Mitchell. “She just had her own take on things and Pip definitely has her own take on life.”
Her checkerboard tops, Converse platform Chucks, board shorts, and billowing Dickies-esque BDG cargo jeans may also bring Gleaming the Cube (technically 1989) or Clueless’ Travis Birkenstock to mind. But, her boxy gender-neutral silhouettes, and some “menswear” pieces, like a checked t-shirt from skater brand Brain Dead and an oversized gingham grandpa sweater from ASOS, put focus on her intuitive detective skills and determination.
“She wasn't sexualized in any way. She was her own person. She was strong,” says Mitchell, also highlighting Pip’s unconventional ways of thinking. “Then her relationship with Ravi [Zain Iqbal, as the younger brother of the accused killer] could take hold through their connection and their intelligence and their personalities, rather than any kind of physical sexualized motive.”
But, Pip's cheeky friend Lauren (Yali Topol Margalith) does embody the ‘90s throwback-loving Zoomer, with her flower-child-by-way-of-Contempo Casuals ruched crop tops and a thrifted Matrix-y jacket. “The black leather coat was definitely a ‘90s nod, with her flared jeans,” says Mitchell. “She basically looked like I did when I was 16.”
Leanne Dresses Like an Effortlessly Cool, Creative Mom
“I’m just saying your parents are, like, the dream,” Lauren says to a horrified Pip. “Fun, intellectual equals… hot for middle-aged people.” But Pip’s still reeling from earlier, when barrister dad Victor (Gary Beadle) fondly reminisced about his raving days of yore. (In my favorite scene, he imparts some pretty solid advice to Pip and amused best friend Cara, played by Asha Banks. “If anyone offers you any drugs, just take half, first, okay?” says Victor, soon pushed out of Pip’s room by Leanne, as he chants, “unz unz unz”, complete with “raise the roof” arm motions. Love.)
But back to my point, Leanne’s wardrobe would appeal to Lauren and Cara, with her elevated, but playfully chic mixed-prints and confident, sculptural silhouettes. We first see Leanne sitting at the kitchen table, handwriting something interesting in a spiral-bound notepad — which I imagine is a romance novel, like Stacey Abrams’ side hustle. Leanne conveys her imaginative leanings in a madras check puff-sleeve blouse from British department store John Lewis, layered under a striped sweater vest from conscious Welsh brand, Toast. Later, for son Josh’s birthday party, Leanne dresses up in a vertical striped shirt dress under a horizontal lined sweater from H&M-owned slow fashion label Arket — another look I want to copy.
“The pattern clashes [express] her own identity: the mum that's quite earthy,” says Mitchell. “She's a creative, artistic, arty mom. I wanted her to be someone that would wear more fashionable [and conscious contemporary] brands.”
A mother of two, Maxwell Martin also infused Leanne’s wardrobe with some of her own personality, which helped her immerse herself in the role. “Anna was like, ‘look can I wear my jeans? Because they're worn-in. They're old and I don't want to be fussed. I'm a real mom,’” says Mitchell, about Leanne’s boyfriend denim and overall easy style. “She was always pushing the sleeves up and she just loved feeling that she owned and was comfortable in it. [Leanne] was fashionable, but she's not a fashion show.”
Further illustrating Leanne’s creative open-mindedness, especially in regards to Pip, Mitchell eschewed the idea of a consistent uniform or “capsule wardrobe.” Like, Leanne would constantly be innovating or playing with her style, based on mood and occasion, which I relate to through my own daily trial-and-error sartorial self-expression.
I mean, I’m child-free, but I do like to think of myself as a cool auntie. Although I'm probably more like Amy Poehler’s thirsty adult in Mean Girls, because there's nothing more validating than when your friend’s 14-year-old tells you she likes your shirt. (Me, all flustered, “oh, thank you… stammer, stammer.”) I found myself out the other night in a Pip x Leanne-esque outfit: striped silky board shorts by Marseille-based Séssun, a cropped tank, slouchy Levi’s denim jacket and manageable By Far holographic kitten heels.
“We sometimes just throw things on that don't quite work, but they do work,” says Mitchell.
We are two Gen X journalists who analyze all the '80s and '90s nostalgia in current pop culture, fashion, and beauty. Read more stories like this one here!
You Oughta Know
American treasure Huey Lewis has some News. The perennially uncool but lovable musician just announced that he’ll be starring in and executive producing a mockumentary TV series, in the style of “Curb Your Enthusiasm.” It will be called “Whatever Happened to Huey Lewis” and will follow him as he navigates life after losing his hearing as a result of Ménière’s disease, with which he was diagnosed in 2018. Lewis has appeared on TV shows sporadically throughout the aughts and 2010s, and most recently, he had a really amusing arc playing himself on the James Spader drama “The Blacklist.” His line: “You do know that Quincy Jones asked me to perform on ‘We Are the World’?” was delivered with perfect comedic timing, and we suspect he’ll be really funny. This project hopefully blunts some of the pain of the unceremonious closing this summer of the Broadway show featuring the musician’s hits. Oh, and just like all the other cool kids these days, Huey and the band even have a Substack newsletter. [The Wrap]
Designer Marc Jacobs got fired from his job at Perry Ellis for bringing a high fashion grunge collection to the runway in 1992, one year before the Smashing Pumpkins released their breakout album, Siamese Dream. Now, Jacobs is revisiting the era via his Gen Z-focused secondary line Heaven by Marc Jacobs with a new capsule collection with the band. (Gen Z cannot get enough of everything ‘90s at the moment.) The collection features a baby tee, hoodie, ringer tee, and even a bag. And to further mash up generations and musicians, Lourdes Leon — Madonna’s daughter and the inspo for her seminal ‘90s album Ray of Light — models for the Smashing Pumpkins collection. (Cheryl’s bias disclaimer: In the ‘90s I lived in Chicago, birthplace of the band, and I intensely dislike them. I think lead singer Billy Corgan has a very punchable face.) [Stereogum]
Milli Vanilli, the disgraced lip syncing duo from the late ‘80s, gets the biopic treatment. Girl You Know It’s True is in theaters now. Fab Morvan, the surviving member of the two, is a producer on the movie, which by all accounts seems to be pretty good. (Morvan actually worked with one of the real Milli Vanilli vocalists, John Davis, to take the show on the road, performing Milli Vanilli songs at music festivals.) Record company moguls who covered up the deception in pursuit of profit are not spared in the telling of the tale. [The Hollywood Reporter]
Death Becomes Her, the 1992 film starring Goldie Hawn and Meryl Streep, becomes a Broadway musical starting this October. Michelle Williams (the Destiny’s Child one) plays the Isabella Rossellini role of the sorceress who provides the anti-aging potion. It will be interesting to see how this tale of halting aging at all costs plays in the golden era of facial injections and mommy makeovers. [WNVM Instagram]
A Different World may be getting a sequel, focused on Whitley (Jasmine Guy) and Dwayne Wayne’s (Kadeem Hardison) daughter. Several of the original’s creative team are supposedly on board, including “Fame” and “Grey’s Anatomy” producer and director Debbie Allen. No word on whether original cast will return, or on the newbies. But, based on genetics alone, the new Hillman College student will definitely be the best dressed on campus. [The Hollywood Reporter]
This October, Peacock is releasing a new thriller called “Hysteria!” starring Julie Bowen. The show is set in the ‘80s during the era of the Satanic Panic, and features a group of teens who use the chaos to help promote their heavy metal band. It sounds like there will be murders and mysteries and the occult and heartwarming parent-child relationship breakthroughs. We highly recommend watching the trailer at the link: it features Belinda Carlisle, a classic Walkman, and a microwave oven with dials. Can’t wait for this show. [The Hollywood Reporter]
Debbie Gibson is taking her first-ever holiday album, 2022’s “Winterlicious,” on the road this December for a handful of shows. She’s also still out touring this fall and has added dates for her “Acoustic Youth” show, celebrating the 35th anniversary of the “Electric Youth” album. [WNVM Instagram]
Mario Lopez made butt wipes. His picture is on the package and they smell like mint. There is nothing more to say. [Instagram]
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I absolutely love this!! How great is this interview, and thanks for the love ❤️